Desierto de los Leones

Exploring the Ex-Convent in Mexico City

Versión en español: [Desierto de los Leones – Explorando el Exconvento en Ciudad de México]

Just outside Mexico City, surrounded by dense forest in the mountains of Cuajimalpa, sits the former Carmelite monastery of the Desierto de los Leones. Today, the complex is part of Desierto de los Leones National Park and houses the Museo de Sitio del Exconvento del Desierto de los Leones.

The name can be a little confusing at first. There is no desert here. For the Carmelites, a desierto was a remote place where monks could withdraw from everyday life for contemplation and religious practice.

The first Carmelite complex was established in 1605 and was completed around 1611. The location was deliberately isolated, but it also had plenty of water. The monks built channels, aqueducts, drainage systems and fountains to supply the monastery and its surrounding grounds.

The first construction did not survive in its original form. Humidity and earthquakes caused significant damage, and a new monastery was started in 1722. Much of what can still be seen today comes from this later complex.

One of the more interesting features of the site is the network of small hermitages in the surrounding forest. These were used by individual Carmelites who wanted to withdraw even further from the main monastery. Instead of simply living together in one building, the monks could spend periods of time in these isolated structures.

The Carmelites remained at the site until 1814. After they left, the monastery was abandoned and gradually deteriorated. The property later went through several different uses.

One of the stranger chapters in its history involves a supposed glass factory. In the 19th century, a glass factory was established at the former monastery, but according to Mexican government sources, it was actually connected to the production of counterfeit coins. Wood from the surrounding forest was used to fuel the furnaces.

The site also became connected to the Mexican Revolution. In 1914, a restaurant was established at the former monastery, and according to Mexico's National Institute of Anthropology and History (INAH), it later served as a refuge for Valentín Reyes, a local Zapatista leader.

The surrounding forest was declared a national park in 1917, and the former monastery was later protected as a historic monument. Restoration work has helped preserve the remaining buildings and ruins.

Visiting the Former Monastery

I visited the Museo de Sitio del Exconvento del Desierto de los Leones while staying in Mexico City. Getting there by Uber took roughly 40–50 minutes. Once you leave the city behind, the surroundings change quickly and the forest makes it easy to understand why the Carmelites chose this location for a secluded monastery.

The complex itself is beautiful and quite different from the usual sights in central Mexico City. The forest surrounding the old buildings also makes the visit feel more remote than the relatively short drive from the city would suggest.

Mobile reception around the monastery is limited. There is a small spot next to the museum where I was able to connect to free Wi-Fi, but the area is tiny.

Booking an Uber from the monastery can therefore be difficult. Since I didn't have roaming, I talked to the bus drivers instead. They took me down to La Venta, where there is a better connection and free public Wi-Fi available around the area. From there, I was able to arrange my ride back to Mexico City.

The traffic back into the city was heavy and took around an hour. La Venta has several inexpensive places to eat and get something to drink, so waiting there for the Uber wasn't a problem.

The museum entrance was 24 MXN when I visited. I didn't confirm whether cards are accepted, so I'd recommend carrying some cash. In general, having a few pesos with you is useful when visiting remote places like this.

Despite being within Mexico City, Desierto de los Leones feels quite removed from the city. The combination of the old monastery, the surrounding forest and the remains of the Carmelite hermitages makes it an interesting place to visit if you want to see a different side of Mexico City.